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Introduction - Sewing is an art as old as mankind. Transmitted by women from century to century, it has never lost its utility or its charm. Mother taught daughter; neighbor taught neighbor. As an attainment, it constitutes, for women and men alike, a lore all its own. The woman of yesterday, were she able to look in on methods and implements today, would be amazed at the singular progress which has been made to improve quality and artistic effect.

Preface - Hundreds of books about sewing have been written in the past generation. Each of them has a point of view. Each tries to be best from that viewpoint.

This book has several viewpoints.

It tries to teach sewing according to the most widely accepted, most modern teaching method, as far as a book can be adapted to that method.

01. Beginning To Sew - One of the greatest pleasures and most happy experiences people can have is in creating something beautiful and useful by themselves. Sewing satisfies your unfulfilled desires by giving you an opportunity to design, and to play with colors and textures for your family and your home. Making a skirt or a dress is a stimulating experience that will cause you to feel very proud of having created something wearable and useful, and of having saved money over the price of a bought article.

02. Sewing Equipment - The cave woman of prehistoric times used a fishbone with a hole in it for a needle, and a tough animal sinew for thread. In like fashion, modern women can sew with only a needle and thread. However, in order to achieve high standards of workmanship, with the least possible time and effort, it is important to have as many of the right tools as you can afford.

03. Basic Stitches - To thread your needle, cut the thread at an angle so that you will have a pointed end to put through the needle eye. If you need a knot, form it according to these directions:

1. Hold the end of the thread between the thumb and the first finger of the right hand. With the left hand, hold the thread about 2 inches from the end.

2. Bring thread around end of first finger, cross ends and hold in place with thumb.

04. Sewing Machine - Operating a sewing machine is comparatively simple. Anyone can learn to do it well and proficiency is merely a matter of practice. You will get the most satisfaction and pleasure out of sewing if you own your machine and learn to use it well. Machines may be operated either by electric motor or by foot treadle. Practice first on paper and then on cloth. See p. 35 for practice suggestions if you are a beginner.

05. Machine Attachments - Use the instruction book that comes with your sewing machine for exact instructions for using individual attachments. Some are very easy and are attached to the machine and used almost as easily as the regular presser foot. Others are more complicated, but all can very easily be learned if you take the time to concentrate on them. An evening spent with the ruffler is not too much time really to learn how to attach it, and how to use it for the various purposes for which it is intended.

06. Selecting Machine - The sewing machine you select will be a treasured tool for many years. The ordinary machine you will see is the lockstitch machine which has been essentially unchanged since 1900. A recent development has been the zigzag machine which was adapted from industrial machinery. Another type of machine makes a chain stitch.

07. General Information - The information presented here is the kind that will later become routine to you. It is wise to read this part through so that these points will be highlighted for you.

Most of the time, two pieces of fabric are sewed together with right sides facing each other and wrong sides of the fabric on the outside. Directions usually say "right sides together."

08. Practice Stitching - To develop skill and confidence, practice will be necessary.

1. Thread the machine enough times to be able to do it routinely. Make sure the thread is between the tension disks, not in back or in front. Develop the habit of raising the take-up lever to the highest point. See that thread enters needle from grooved side.

09. Fabrics - The fabric picture is not the simple, uncomplicated thing it used to be, for many fabrics are finished to masquerade as others, and new synthetics require special care. Fabrics are made from fibers from natural or synthetic (man-made) sources, spun into yarn, made into cloth in a variety of ways, and finished to give various effects and special qualities. The best known fibers and the ones you are most likely to use in your home sewing are the following:

10. Styles - There is no "secret" to dressing well. If you will analyze your figure carefully, you will learn to select pattern lines that emphasize your good points—and that minimize your bad ones.

Women who have ideal or "average" figures can wear almost any line or style. But most of us are not that fortunate. You will probably find that you fall into one of the four basic figure classifications—or that you have one or more of the minor figure problems studied below.

11. Patterns - When you buy your pattern, don't ask for the size you wear in a ready-made dress. You may find that you will need an entirely different size in a pattern. So that you will get "made-to-order" fit easily and quickly, follow the instructions below in choosing your pattern size.

1. Take your measurements or have the salesgirl take them for you. (See next page.)

12. Marking The Work - When fabrics are napped, or have a definite up and down design, the pattern must be placed on the fabric and cut with all pieces facing in the same direction. If you do not do this, you will find that your finished velveteen dress seems lighter in some parts, and considerably darker in others, or that your new print is upside down in the back.

13. Fitting - No matter how well a dress is made, it will lose all its value if it does not fit its wearer properly. The first step in fitting is choice of a pattern of correct size, and one that is suitable in style for the wearer. The next step is proper alteration of the pattern to fit individual measurements. Ways of adjusting the pattern for different problems are described from pp. 59 to 72. Even careful choice of a pattern and accurate alteration do not completely eliminate fitting, for fit on paper does not mean that fabric will drape "just so" or conform to body lines perfectly.

14. Making A Skirt - If you have tried the practice projects, and especially the dirndl skirt, you are certainly ready to work with a skirt pattern. Measure your waist, holding the tape snug, but not tight, around your waist. Buy a pattern for your size waist for a four-gore (section) skirt with a waistband. On the back of the envelope, check the amount of material you will need, buying more for a napped material or a one-way print.

15. Making A Blouse - If you have been following along in this book, and trying the suggested projects, you have learned, by now, something of how to use a pattern. Working with the three pieces in the skirt pattern is different from working with a more complicated pattern, so let's try one of the latter variety. Measure the fullest part of your bust, your waist, your hips, and buy a pattern for a button-down-the-front sports blouse with a collar and sleeves. Check the back of the envelope for the yardage needed.

16. Making A Dress - You have now made a skirt, and also a blouse. Constructing a dress involves very few new problems. You may finish the bodice completely, then finish the skirt completely, and join them at the waistline to make a dress. In this case, your general order of assembly for the dress would be: pattern alterations, pinning pattern on to fabric, cutting, marking the work, bodice darts and tucks, bound buttonholes or fabric loop closings, bodice side, shoulder and center seams (left side left open below notch for zipper), collar and neckline, sleeves and cuffs, finishing details for bodice, skirt darts, seams (left side open above notch for zipper), pleats. Try on the bodice and skirt for first fitting. Make necessary corrections.

17. Seams + Seam - Seams are the lines of stitching which hold two pieces of fabric together. In general, we try to make seams as inconspicuous as possible, and in most cases, as strong as possible. The type of seam we use depends on the strength and the appearance we want to give. In some cases the seam may be used as part of the decoration, or for a functional purpose.

18. Hems - A hem is a twice turned edge. Its width is the same all along the hem.

Unless it is used for decorative purposes, a hem should be inconspicuous. The steps in making a hem are: (1) Measure. (2) Pin. (3) Pin or baste close to fold on outside. (4) Measure and trim inside. (5) Press with damp cloth. (6) Finish with loose, invisible stitches. Slip stitching (see p. 11) is recommended for light cottons, light or medium weight rayon’s, firmly woven silks. Seam binding is recommended for heavy materials and materials which ravel. Catch stitching (see p. 11) is recommended for heavy fabrics.

19. Darts - Darts are triangular arrangements which take up excess fullness in clothes and make them fit better. They are necessary because the body is not flat nor straight, but curved. Darts are usually made on wrong side of garment, and appear on right side only as a decorative effect, as in waistline darts in very slim skirts. The most usual places for darts are at the waistline tapering up to the bust, from the side seam of the bodice tapering in towards the bust, from the shoulder down, and at the neckline in back.

20. Tucks - Tucks, like darts, are made to take in excess fullness and to mold the fabric to the body lines. They are also used as decorations. The main difference between a tuck and a dart is that darts are stitched to a point, while tucks are stitched in a straight line. They may be stitched on the right or wrong side. To make really professional looking tucks, use the machine tucker which marks the width of each tuck and the spacing between. It is most important that this be accurate.

21. Pleats + Godets - Pleats are used for decorative effects and to add fullness. Pleated sections should be complete before being set into a garment. Mark the place for the pleats first with chalk or tailor's tacks very carefully. These markings are indicated on commercial patterns. Use plenty of pins and press often and well. It is a good idea when stay stitching slanting lines or triangles at the bottom of pleats (for reinforcement) first to trace on paper the desired design, and then stitch right over the paper. The effect will then be completely symmetrical and the paper may easily be torn away.

22. Gathers + Ruffles - Gathers are made in soft fabrics where fullness must be taken up into a small space. They give necessary fullness and are also decorative. For heavier fabrics, pleats and tucks are used. Gathers and ruffles are best done on bias and crosswise threads.

Hand gathers: Use double thread and start with a knot. Make a row of small running stitches, pull them up to fit, and wind the thread around a pin till stitched. Two rows, ¼ inch apart, are better than one.

23. Headings + Casings - A heading is the part of the ruffle above the gathers. A gathered ruffle with a heading is very pretty at the neckline or as a decorative detail at the hem of an evening gown. A casing is a hem with sides open through which to run elastic, cord, ribbon, etc

24. Bindings + Facings - Raw edges are often finished with bindings and facings for decorative and practical reasons. Facings are wider than bindings and are most often cut to the shape of the garment. To get a smooth finish, learn to clip around curves, trim seams close, slash to corners, and press very flat. With circular edges, ease binding or facing slightly when applying to outward or convex curve; hold taut to inward or concave curve.

25. Plackets - A placket is a finished opening for hooks and eyes, snaps, buttons, zippers, etc., where necessary.

Narrow hemmed placket: Turn under narrow hem on each side of the opening. Fold the hem under on one side, forming a pleat, so that it laps over the other side. Reinforce lower end with diagonal backstitching. Used for infants' wear and underwear.

26. Pockets - Pockets are of two kinds: patch pockets, which are shaped pieces set on the outside of the garment, and set-in pockets, which are inserted into a slit, so that the bulk of the fabric is on the inside of the garment. Patch pockets are the simpler kind and are used for aprons, work clothes, and informal garments. The style chosen depends on the style of the garment and the individual taste of the wearer. Set-in pockets are usually made in more tailored clothes. General rules for pockets are: stitching on the outside must be straight for a good appearance, pairs must be carefully balanced, pocket must not be too high or too low, top corners must be carefully reinforced.

27. Neck Openings - The neck opening depends on the style of the garment. You should choose styles that are becoming to you; for example, round necklines are unsuitable for stout, round faces; V-shaped lines are more flattering. (See pp. 54-58.)

Round neckline: Cut bias strip about two inches wide and the length of the opening plus one inch. Join the short ends in a ½-inch seam. Press seam open, turn in bottom edge ¼ inch, baste and stitch close to fold. Stitch bias to neckline at seam line, right sides together.

28. Collars - Choose collars of a shape suitable to the garment and becoming to you. (See pp. 54-58.)

Collars are usually made with a facing of same shape and material. Stitch collar and facing, right sides together, on three sides, leaving neck edge free. Trim and clip seams; turn; press.

Collar and facing are sometimes cut in one piece. Fold in half lengthwise, right sides together, stitch across ends, and turn as above.

29. Yokes - Yokes are often emphasized with stitching or by making the yoke of a different fabric. Yoke can be tucked, shirred, smocked, or decorated in a great many ways.

Stitched-in yokes: Attach yoke to garment with plain seams.

Overlaid yokes: Turn yoke edges back and attach over garment edge in lapped effect. Stitch close to edge, or back ¼ inch, as desired. Where this type of yoke is done with transparent materials, it is often a good idea to stitch over paper and then tear the paper away.

30. Sleeves - Sleeves can be the telltale mark that a garment is homemade. So make sleeves carefully and set them in with special attention given to pressing top of sleeve. One-piece sleeve is folded right sides together and underarm seam is stitched. Two-piece, or tailored, sleeve is placed right sides together, and stitched along underarm and side seams. Press seams open, turn right side out. Put in elbow or shoulder darts or gathers before sewing up seams.

31. Belts - Belts are usually cut on the straight of the goods. Often they are shaped to fit the waist: the bottom edge is made longer than the top edge. Sometimes one end is shaped like a triangle. Several rows of stitching may be applied for decoration, as well as to give a stiffening effect.

Single belt: Finish edges all around with a hem or binding. Add decorative stitches, if desired.

32. Buttons + Buttonholes - Mark place for buttons, buttonholes, fastenings, hooks, snaps, etc., very carefully. Use a cardboard gauge, and run a line of basting through where the centers of the fastenings will be. Use heavy thread except on very sheer fabrics. Linen thread is good for especially hard wear. Snaps, hooks and eyes, and two- or four-hole buttons are sewed easily on a zigzag machine, or may be sewed by hand as follows:

33. Finishing - These are the finishing details for a garment and can make the difference between a nice looking and a poor looking dress. Raw and turned edges are finished in a variety of ways. Many suggestions are given below. The important thing to remember in trimming is that trims must be suitable to fabric, kind of garment and cut of garment. Don't over trim. It is better not to trim at all than to trim too much. Too much decoration is in poor taste.

34. Decorative Stitches - Decorative stitches are fancy embroidery stitches used for decorative effects, for contrast, and emphasis.

Begin with a back stitch, not a knot. Where a backstitch will be visible, allow a length of thread to fall across the wrong side and catch it into stitches made on right side. Finish a line with two tiny backstitches.

35. Remakes - Remodeling is every woman's way of making the most of what she has.

First go through your wardrobe and try everything on. Do this with the proper attitude, that is, put on a good girdle, change your shoes, freshen your face and comb your hair. You will then be able to get an idea of how the garment really looks when you wear it. Now check fit critically; waistline, general hang or balance of dress, hem, set of sleeves, becomingness. Sort your wardrobe into separate piles: those things needing no change, those things needing refitting, those things needing vital changes. Don't, however, take any drastic steps until you are sure of what you are doing.

36. Tailoring - Constructing a suit or coat should be no more difficult than constructing a dress, once the basic elements of sewing are mastered. Your differences will be in interfacing, interlining, and lining.

You will need an interfacing of lightweight canvas or muslin. Sometimes canvas is used for the front and collar, and unbleached muslin for the rest of the garment. The lining should be of rayon twill, rayon or silk crepe, satin or sateen. Sometimes novelty linings are used for their effect, for example: quilted cotton, plaids, prints, checks, stripes.

37. Children's Clothes - Children's clothes are constructed like adult's clothes, but there are certain special points it is wise to consider. Sizes are usually chosen according to chest measurement, not age. Pattern sizes range like this:

38. Home Beautiful - Choose fabrics for home sewing carefully. Consider the effect you want and critically examine materials for draping qualities, texture, strength, wash ability. Plan colors and try to visualize your finished room. Looking at magazines specializing in home decoration, and visiting furniture departments of retail stores will give you many good ideas.

39. Bedspreads - Standard-size spreads are 72 x 108 inches for a single bed and 90 x 108 for a double bed. You may have to make some adjustments for your individual bed. It is a good idea to measure over the made-up bed, for blankets take up an amazing amount of room.

40. Dressing-Table - Make a pattern for the top of the table out of paper. Use this pattern to cut out the fabric, adding two-inch seam allowance. Put fabric on table, and tack allowance underneath. Make a gathered skirt, using twice the measurement around table, and the length from the table top to the floor plus hems. Hem bottom and top of skirt before gathering. Tack to the table, and cover the joining by gluing braid or ribbon over. Or, stitch a l½-inch to two-inch band to top of skirt, tack skirt on and turn banding over tacks to hide.

41. Lampshades - Lampshades are made of paper or fabric stretched over a frame. Where it is hard to judge the size and shape of an uncovered frame, buy an inexpensive one of proper size and shape and recover it. Paper shades are made of wrapping paper, wallpaper, old maps, coated and treated papers. To make a pattern to fit the shade, paint the frame edge, or immerse in water if frame is rustproof, and roll over newspaper while wet.

42. Curtains - Before you begin, examine your windows first and see if you can improve on the architecture with your curtain treatment. Short, narrow windows can be made to look longer and wider by extending curtains beyond edges of window and down to floor. Off-center windows can be made to look centered by carrying curtain fabric beyond edge of window on to wall. Place the fixture and rods first so that measuring will be more accurate.

43. Draperies - Draperies are made in two lengths, to the bottom of the apron, and to the floor. Use at least one width of 36-inch fabric for each side of the window; one width of 50-inch fabric is not too much. Measure length, add four inches for top hem, two inches for heading, 3½ inches for lower hem. Straighten the fabric and cut into proper lengths. Watch design where there is a large print in the pattern. Match pairs carefully or the finished effect will not be good. Clip selvage, turn in l½ inches to two inches on sides, two inches in center, 3½ inches on bottom, and five inches on top, turning only once, and catch stitch. The lining will cover the raw edges.

44. Valances - Valances are decorative finishes for the tops of draperies. With rooms with low ceilings, start valance at ceiling. A simple valance has already been described (p. 211). Circular, pleated and gathered flounces can be used for attractive valances. A casing is made at the top for the outer rod on which the valance is placed. Valances are usually lined. They may even be sewed onto the top of the curtain or drape for an informal room.

45. Slip Covers - Slip covers can hide a multitude of sins in upholstered furniture and add new life and smartness to a room. To measure pieces for covers, take length and width measurements for each part of the piece separately and note them down. Measure from highest point to lowest (B-C) and add one inch extra allowance for each seam. Measure back (B-A), front (B-C), arms (G), wings (J-K), cushions (L-M-N-O-P), all separately. Add a good-sized extra allowance for a generous tuck-in on seat. Add all separate length measurements and divide by 36 to get the yardage.

46. Mending - Mending can be fun if you treat it as an art and work for careful, durable, flat finishes. Study the weave of the fabric and try to duplicate it. Try to get as invisible a finish as possible except where you are making a decorative mend. In order to mend, you must have a basic knowledge of the hand stitches, although you will find that the running stitch is the one you will use most often. Stitches are usually short and fine. Rows of stitching are uneven to prevent definite lines from showing and to insure an invisible finish. Work from the right side most often to blend in your work.

THE END