Chapter 45 - Slip Covers

Slip covers can hide a multitude of sins in upholstered furniture and add new life and smartness to a room. To measure pieces for covers, take length and width measurements for each part of the piece separately and note them down. Measure from highest point to lowest (B-C) and add one inch extra allowance for each seam. Measure back (B-A), front (B-C), arms (G), wings (J-K), cushions (L-M-N-O-P), all separately. Add a good-sized extra allowance for a generous tuck-in on seat. Add all separate length measurements and divide by 36 to get the yardage. With 50-inch material, some small pieces may be cut from excess width left after large sections are cut, therefore 50-inch material is more economical. A typical comparison would be 5½ yards of 50-inch fabric as against eight yards of 36-inch fabric for a chair. You can make a plan on paper for the cutting layout to give you an idea of how the pieces should be cut. Allow extra material for patterned fabric that must be matched, about ½ to ¾ yards. Don't figure the amount too closely, give yourself a margin for error.

Material may be placed on piece to be covered and pinned and cut directly, but this is risky with an inexperienced worker. It is better to start with a pattern made from muslin or some other inexpensive, closely woven fabric. Lay muslin on chair back after cutting back piece of necessary width and length. Pin it to back, cut inside back piece and pin upper seam line together. Put in enough pins to hold material securely in place while working, so that there is no slipping. Cut out other pieces necessary to finish top of chair—for example, wings, arms, etc.—and pin in seams. Seams should be about ¾ inch when finished, so that there is no danger of their being easily pulled out. Go on to seat and other parts, pinning them securely to chair, then pinning in seams.

When cover is all pinned together, carefully examine your work and repin where necessary. Look for wrinkles, tautness, too much fullness. Use tailor's chalk to mark seam lines and to make markings necessary to help you reassemble parts later. Trim seams to ¾ inch.

Separate pattern pieces and cut out material carefully. Be sure that grain lines are correct, otherwise slip cover may slip and pull out of place too readily. Center a printed pattern or stripes carefully. Transfer seam and assembly markings to slipcover fabric. Join seams, usually upholsterer's seam (French seam in reverse, p. 100) or corded seam (p. 101). Narrow piping (pp. 100, 167), or moss trim may also be used.

Valance or flounce is usually used for lower section of slip covers, gathered, pleated, or godet. Prepare flounce as has already been described (p. 198). Attach the valance last, pinning it in place, then trying on cover for a fitting. If necessary, make adjustments, but work slowly to avoid mistakes.

Often a zipper is put into a side back seam. It naturally is much longer than a dress zipper, but is put in in the same manner (pp. 42, 131, 132). Be sure seam allowance is ample at this point. Cover zipper completely. Or, opening can be made and fastened with large snaps, placed at intervals.

Make seat cushions last. Zipper for these usually goes across top and down two adjoining sides for a few inches, or the cover is made with a snap closing.

After a few tries, you can become an expert slip-cover maker. It's the first one that's the hardest, so plunge in and get going. The chances are that with a little planning and a lot of patience, you will get very pleasing and satisfying results.

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