Chapter 43 - Draperies

Draperies are made in two lengths, to the bottom of the apron, and to the floor. Use at least one width of 36-inch fabric for each side of the window; one width of 50-inch fabric is not too much. Measure length, add four inches for top hem, two inches for heading, 3½ inches for lower hem. Straighten the fabric and cut into proper lengths. Watch design where there is a large print in the pattern. Match pairs carefully or the finished effect will not be good. Clip selvage, turn in l½ inches to two inches on sides, two inches in center, 3½ inches on bottom, and five inches on top, turning only once, and catch stitch. The lining will cover the raw edges. The lining is made of sateen, about three inches shorter, and is turned in all around as in drapery. Top hem of drape is turned over crinoline or buckram for stiffening.

Place lining over drape, wrong sides together, and slip stitch edges, going over stitches every few inches for extra strength. Allow drapes and lining to hang 24 hours before tacking bottoms. Use plenty of pins to hold drape and lining together as you work. Do not attach the two at the bottom. Instead, French tack (see pp. 74, 156) them every four to six inches. Weights are often put into bottom hem to prevent curling of edges and to give proper effect. (See p. 157.)

To finish top, put in pinch pleats, as already described above. Stores have self-pleating buckram strips that are sewed to back of drapery heading, and, when pulled up, make pinch pleats quickly and well. Another type of heading is made with box pleats. (See pp. 115-117.) Measure four inches, then two inches, then four inches, etc., across top of drape. Bring four-inch markings together and stitch in pleats. Make sure they are very straight and evenly spaced. Cartridge (pp. 115-117) and pipe-organ pleats are also used for drapery headings. Cut out pieces of cotton wadding, shape into a roll, and with a cording foot stitch strips of scrap material around them. Insert rolls into drapery heading, and stitch close with cording foot. Again spacing and evenness is important. A roll with four-inch diameter, with four-inch spaces between rolls, makes good proportion for floor to ceiling drapes. Sometimes a roll is used to form the pleats, but is not stitched in. Here you depend on the buckram to stiffen and hold the shape of the cartridge pleats. In this case, catch the top of the pleats to the drape with a few stitches to prevent any sag. Pipe-organ pleats are longer and closer together than cartridge pleats, but are made in the same way. Never press this kind of pleat flat.

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