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01. Beginning To Sew
02. Sewing Equipment
03. Basic Stitches
04. Sewing Machine
05. Machine Attachments
06. Selecting Machine
07. General Information
08. Practice Stitching
09. Fabrics
10. Styles
11. Patterns
12. Marking The Work
13. Fitting
14. Making A Skirt
15. Making A Blouse
16. Making A Dress
17. Seams + Seam
18. Hems
19. Darts
20. Tucks
21. Pleats + Godets
22. Gathers + Ruffles
23. Headings + Casings
24. Bindings + Facings
25. Plackets
26. Pockets
27. Neck Openings
28. Collars
29. Yokes
30. Sleeves
31. Belts
32. Buttons + Buttonholes
33. Finishing
34. Decorative Stitches
35. Remakes
36. Tailoring
37. Children's Clothes
38. Home Beautiful
39. Bedspreads
40. Dressing-Table
41. Lampshades
42. Curtains
43. Draperies
44. Valances
45. Slip Covers
46. Mending
Resources
Chapter 42 - Curtains
Before you begin, examine your windows first and see if you can improve on the architecture with your curtain treatment. Short, narrow windows can be made to look longer and wider by extending curtains beyond edges of window and down to floor. Off-center windows can be made to look centered by carrying curtain fabric beyond edge of window on to wall. Place the fixture and rods first so that measuring will be more accurate.
To measure curtains, start from the bottom of the rod and measure to within one inch of sill, or to the bottom of the apron, or to within one inch of floor, depending on length desired. The curtain rod slips through a casing made at the top, and, if desired, a heading can stand above the casing. Casings are often made top and bottom so that curtain can be reversed for better wear. Curtain should be at least twice width of window, and wider for very sheer fabrics or for really full effect. The casing is made approximately twice the width or diameter of the rod. For a one-inch finished casing, add 2¼ inches, the ¼ inch for the first turn of the hem, and for one-inch heading add an additional two inches. Add at least three inches for finished hem at bottom and two inches as a shrinkage allowance. In sheer fabrics, hems are often made double. Measure lengths very carefully so that pairs are identical. Be sure center hems in a pair face each other. Hems may be done by hand or machine. Trimming is most easily done with ready-made trims applied to center and bottom edges. Cut off all selvages before starting to turn in hems.
After straightening the fabric and cutting the lengths, do the outside narrow hems first, then make the center hems, which are approximately the depth of the bottom hem. Do the top hem (casing and heading) last, putting the shrinkage allowance into a tuck close to stitching line on wrong side, and finally apply the trimming.
Sash curtains are curtains for the lower part, or sash, of the window. The rod is placed at the top of the lower sash and the measurements are taken as already described, with the same allowances. A heading is usually allowed on a curtain of this kind.
Cottage curtains, also called Dutch curtains, are a combination of a sash curtain and a second curtain for the upper part of the window. For upper curtain, measure from bottom of top rod to four to six inches below sash curtain, or more where the curtain is to tie back.
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Casement curtains are for windows that open in and out. Two rods are used, top and bottom, measurements taken from bottom of top rod to top of bottom rod. Casing and heading are usually used top and bottom.
Tie backs: The easiest tie back to make is a band about 4x12, folded in half lengthwise, outsides together, and stitched at the short ends. Trim seams, then turn to right side, turn in raw edges and top stitch all around.
For a ruffled edge, make a band as above, but insert ruffle between turned edges before top stitching. Or, seam short ends of band, right sides together, trim seams and turn. Stitch one thickness of band to wrong side of ruffle, turn free edge of band in, baste and stitch over seam on right side of ruffle.
For tie back with ruffle on two or three sides, cut out two pieces for the band, turn in raw edges all around and insert ruffle between turned edges. Baste carefully and top stitch.
Pinch pleats: Often a curtain is made with a pinch-pleated top instead of a heading and casing. The curtain is then attached to a rod with drapery hooks caught through the back of the pleat and hooked over the rod. There are usually four to five pinch pleats in one curtain, made from l½ inches to two inches from the hemmed sides. Insert crinoline or lightweight buckram into top hem for stiffening; do not make a casing. Mark off spaces about three to 3½ inches wide starting from the center of the curtain, and make pinch pleats in this fashion.
Bring marks together, folding through the center as for a tuck, wrong sides together, and stitch the tuck from the top down to the hem line and across to the fold you have made. Backtack ends. Divide the tuck into three sections on the right side and catch by hand with over and over stitches at bottom of tuck. Be sure pinch pleats are evenly spaced.
Ruffled valance: Sometimes it is desirable to have a valance over the top of the curtain. An easy one is made by cutting a strip of fabric twice width of window and narrowly hemming it on three sides. Make a casing and heading on the fourth side and insert rod. The curtain is placed on a rod close to the window and the valance on an outer rod. This kind of valance is best over a ruffled curtain. Over a straighter curtain it would be best to gather the ruffle, instead of allowing the extra fullness to pull up in a gathered effect on the rod.
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