Chapter 39 - Bedspreads

Standard-size spreads are 72 x 108 inches for a single bed and 90 x 108 for a double bed. You may have to make some adjustments for your individual bed. It is a good idea to measure over the made-up bed, for blankets take up an amazing amount of room.

Plain spread: Use six yards of 36-inch fabric for a single bed and nine yards for a double bed. Six yards of 50-inch fabric will make a double spread. Cut 36-inch fabric crosswise into two three-yard pieces. Cut one lengthwise for two 18-inch strips. Seam one narrow width onto each side of the wide strip. Press seams open. Finish bottom with narrow hem. For a double bed, use a center strip of 36 inch and attach side strips of 27 inch each for standard-size spread.

Spread with flounces: Make a flat top piece to fit the top of the bed, of one center and two side strips, plus seam allowance at sides for attaching flounce. Make flounce of desired style, depth from top of mattress to floor plus two inches, and attach to three sides, usually in a plain seam. Circular flounce spread needs about 12 yards of 50-inch fabric. To measure the amount needed for a gathered flounce, measure length and width of bed. Add two lengths and one width together, multiply by two (for fullness) and convert to inches. Divide the figure by the width of the material, usually 36 or 50 inches, multiply your answer by the depth of the ruffle (with two-inch seam included), and since your answer is in inches, divide by 36 to get the number of yards needed. Add this to the amount needed for the top of the bed to get the yardage for the entire spread.

Boxed spread: Make flat piece to fit the top of the bed. Attach to it a strip about nine inches deep, and miter the corners for a careful fit (see p. 107). To bottom of boxed strip, attach desired type of flounce.

Spread with dust ruffle: This kind of spread is made in two parts, a separate flounce that is attached to the box spring ticking or sewed to a lining that fits under the mattress, and a short spread for the top of the bed. Make the lower section with any desired flounce, measuring the depth from the top of the box spring to the floor. Attach this to a foundation piece that fits the top of the box spring. This is made of muslin, usually, with a center piece and two narrower strips seamed on to the sides, as described above. Or, make the flounce with an allowance for a two-inch lap over the box spring, and over-cast the edge of this lap to the box spring ticking. Or, use tape snaps, sewing one tape to top edge of flounce and other tape to box spring ticking. Flounce is then snapped on and off for

easy laundering.

The spread over the dust ruffle is shorter than a usual spread. For a plain spread, make as described above under plain spread, about 57 x 112 for a single bed and 72 x 112 for a double bed. The extra length is for tucking in the pillow. The spread should be long enough to cover the mattress and the top of dust ruffle completely. For a spread with a flounce, make as described above, but, again, much shorter. Finished flounce is usually nine to ten inches.

Lining for spreads:

1. Make lining of muslin exactly as you make spread, usually ½ inch shorter. Place finished spread out flat, wrong side up, put lining on top, wrong side down, turn in edges of lining and slip stitch to spread.

2. Or, make lining and spread exactly same size, put one on top of the other, wrong sides together, and finish edges together with binding, cording, braid, etc.

3. A third way is to put lining and spread right sides together, seam on both long sides and one short side. Turn right side out, turn in top edges and slip stitch by hand, stitch, or bind.

Finishes for bedspreads:

1. Pipe seams or insert cording (see pp. 101, 167), and finish lower edge in same way. To use self cording for the bottom edge, you need ½ to ¾ yard extra fabric.

2. On both sides, edge stitch decorative bands over seams.

3. Quilt top.

4. Use applique design in center of spread.

5. Use a double ruffle at bottom, possibly with a picoted edge.

6. Apply braid or ball fringe on edges.

7. Where there is not too much fullness, two front edges can be laced together at the corners.

Covering pillows on the bed: Allow extra length on spread for tuck-in or make separate pillow sham as long as the width of the bed and wide enough to cover pillows completely. Finish edges in some decorative way. A pillow sham may be attached to the spread. Make the sham and line it, leaving one long edge raw. Attach to spread, wrong side of spread and right side of sham together, leaving sham lining free. Turn seam up, turn in raw edge of sham lining and slip stitch over seam. Or make seam as above, catching in all thicknesses, trim very close and seam again on right side ¼ inch from original seam.

Pillow Covering Styles

Bolsters: Cut out a piece the width of the bed and about 30 inches wide. This piece may be quilted, if desired. Cut out two additional pieces, 6 x 30, and attach them at each end of the long piece with covered cording inserted in the seam (see p. 101). Put bolster roll on wrong side of fabric, arrange edges to meet and overcast. To finish ends, pull up cord tight, poke ends into the bolster after knotting or sewing to fasten them securely into place. Cover center with a tassel or large covered button.

Decorative boudoir pillows may be made by seaming two pieces of desired size and shape, right sides together, on three sides. Turn right side out, insert pillow, turn in raw edges and finish. Ruffles, cord, decorative stitches, braid, etc., may be used to finish edges.

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