Chapter 35 - Remarks And Remodeling

Remodeling is every woman's way of making the most of what she has.

First go through your wardrobe and try everything on. Do this with the proper attitude, that is, put on a good girdle, change your shoes, freshen your face and comb your hair. You will then be able to get an idea of how the garment really looks when you wear it. Now check fit critically; waistline, general hang or balance of dress, hem, set of sleeves, becomingness. Sort your wardrobe into separate piles: those things needing no change, those things needing refitting, those things needing vital changes. Don't, however, take any drastic steps until you are sure of what you are doing.

The easiest kind of refitting adjustment is taking in the side seams. When doing this, the safe way is to do the whole seam, for example, from waist to hem. Pin in the changed seam line on the right side, remove the dress, put in a line of pins on both sides of seam, removing first pins, then turn to wrong side and continue; when you fold the material, the two lines of pins will give you your new guide line. Be sure side and center hang straight to floor.

It is often better to increase or add new darts than to change basic seams. Where there are wrinkles, a fundamental rule is to make the seam towards which the wrinkle is pointing wider. Several narrow skimpy pleats are often combined into one or two larger pleats. Pleated skirts are shortened at the waist, not at the hem usually. Where pleats do not fall straight, the skirt is lifted at the waist.

Necklines often have to be cut lower. In this case, fold and cut both sides at once for evenness. Cut out a facing shaped like the new neckline, on proper grain. Too low a neckline can have a vestee or yoke added. Too loose a neckline needs a few back neck darts.

Skirts may be shortened or lengthened (very common alterations) in the usual way for turning hems. Where creases show after lengthening, several rows of machine stitching or decorative bands may be used to cover them. Piecing must often be made. A false hem may be added without difficulty (see p. 107), with nothing showing on the right side. Or a decorative band may be applied with a lapped seam, piped if desired. Or, one or more pieces of contrasting material may be inserted if the skirt is cut above the hem. Where contrasting material is used, it is a good idea to use some of the same material in another place, so the total effect will be unified.

Seat bagginess means redoing skirt side seams and waistline seams. Often a lining in the seat will cure this problem. Tightness through the hips is cured easily by raising the skirt. This, of course, implies that the placket is removed and reinserted after the new waistline seam is stitched, and that the hem is changed.

Where the bodice is too long, a new waistline seam is necessary. Where it is too short, a piece has to be set in at the waist.
 
This can be very attractive and decorative. Short skirts also may be lengthened at the waist with a set-in band or yoke.

A too loose waistline may be adjusted with gathers or body darts. Too tight a waist may need let-out seams, gathers, or darts. Bust tightness is usually fixed by letting out underarm seams or setting in a gusset. Vertical trimming bands can be used, or back and front closings can be let out and the skimpy effect resulting can be camouflaged with some decorative effect, such as a ruffle.

Vertical trimming may be used through the entire length of a dress for widening, through center, or side centers. Ribbon and narrow remnants are often used for this.

When shoulder is too long, rip out sleeve and reset or add dart or pleat in center of shoulder seam. A sloping shoulder needs a deeper outer seam. A short shoulder can have a yoke, gusset, band or epaulet set in on top or between sleeve cap and blouse. Or a panel can be set in blouse center back or front.

Twisted sleeves have to be reset in armhole. Changing the kind of position of the shoulder pad is often a great help.

In remodeling, some good general rules are: to combine fabrics of similar kind and texture; to use interesting, but not startling contrasts; to throw away badly worn fabrics; to sometimes cut close to old seam lines and throw away seams so that new seams will be clean cut; to repeat lines, such as curved yoke and pocket; to decorate piecing to accent, rather than to try to hide; to think of using the wrong side of the fabric if it is possible. Rip, clean (wash if possible) and carefully press an old garment. Dye if desired. Don't throw anything away until you are sure you won't need it. Don't start to work until you are sure of the finished effect you want. Pattern books and departments for ready wear are full of ideas. A new pattern, as much like the idea you have in mind as possible, should be bought and used for recutting and reconstructing. Some ideas and suggested projects follow:

1. From an old dress, make a jumper. Rip out sleeves, lower neckline to square or round shape. Cut out facing for neck and sleeve. Refit seams and redo hem if necessary.

2. From an old dress, make a blouse, dickie, vestee.

3. Make a skirt and bolero from an old dress.

4. Make children's clothes from old adult's clothing.

5. Make street length garment from evening clothes.
 
Boy's Mackinaw From Man's Overcoat

6. Add new collar and cuffs, or new collar and sleeves. Adding a yoke will often transform a dress. Pockets can be added or changed to match.

7. Cut out woman's or child's suit from man's. Use sleeve pieces to cut out new sleeves, facings for new facings, etc.
 
8. Change sleeve length, insert panels, use slot seam effect, add ruching, braid or other decoration.

9. Make one new dress from the best parts of two old ones.

10. Add pockets, collars, cuffs, decorative stitching, tucks, pleats, new buttons, new belt, piping, ruffles, cape, overskirt, etc.

11. Make a playsuit or bathing suit from an old summer dress.

12. Make dickies, halters, beach bags, jabots, tiny hats, belts from scraps and remnants.

13. Make a mackinaw for a schoolboy from a man's old winter overcoat with belted back.

14. Make a suit dress for street wear from man's suit with belted back and patch pockets.

15. Make a street dress from man's serge suit.

16. Make dickies from parts of men's old shirts.

Street Dress From Man's Serge Suit
Makeovers from Suits

Man-tailored or dressmaker style—which shall the new suit be? Texture of the cloth and cut of the old suit coat are the best answers to that question.

This old suit had a belted back, patch pockets, and soft wool, lending itself best to a peplum-style jacket with an insert belt.

A four-gore skirt is about the only style that can be made from one pair of trousers; but a pleat set in at the center front adds to the grace and comfort of this skirt.

Here's a two-faced cloth that was good for a turn-about. This old, shabby overcoat had a checked outside, worn and snagged, but a plaid inside without a mar. Just right for a boy's mackinaw.

The old overcoat was ripped apart, and because the cloth was so thick, it was sent to a cleaner for washing.

Only extra expense was for cotton lining, buttons, and buckle.

Will a man's suit make over into a dress? This trim outfit is the answer although it called for a bit of camouflage art. The waist front had to be pieced crosswise. So piecing were made in line with the inverted tucks, and the seams, extending from ends of tucks to armholes, were hidden by the rantering stitch.
 
A slit at the lower edge of the sleeve to match the tucks at waist front, and a seam running from the slit to the shoulder give the sleeve piecing a "meant-to-be" look.

The scrap-bag furnished round black braid for the plaited belt. Dickies of different styles and different colors offer all sorts of chance for change.

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