Chapter 31 - Belts

Belts are usually cut on the straight of the goods. Often they are shaped to fit the waist: the bottom edge is made longer than the top edge. Sometimes one end is shaped like a triangle. Several rows of stitching may be applied for decoration, as well as to give a stiffening effect.

Single belt: Finish edges all around with a hem or binding. Add decorative stitches, if desired.

Double belt: Cut out strip of desired length and twice finished width plus seams. Fold lengthwise, right sides together, stitch around, leaving an opening for turning. Trim seams close at corners, press seams open before turning. Turn belt right side out. Turn under raw edges and slip stitch.

To add stiffening with this method of constructing the belt, fold strip right sides together, place a piece of grosgrain, taffeta, muslin or belting on top, and stitch all three together. Continue as above.

Two-piece belt: Turn under seam allowance all around, insert stiffening under turned edges of one piece, baste and stitch two pieces, wrong sides together.

Set-in belt: Join belt to bodice and skirt with plain seams and top stitch. Or, turn seam allowance of belt under, and apply to garment in lapped seam. Where set-in belt is shaped, stitch very carefully around points and curves or the finished effect will be poor.

Inner belt: Sometimes a skirt is finished without a band at the top. Cut a piece of belting, ½ inch longer than waist, turn back ends ¼ inch, and hem. Attach hooks and eyes to ends to just fit around waist. Top of skirt is lap seamed to belting, letting skirt extend a little above belting. Where you do not want stitching to show on right side, turn top seam allowance of skirt over belting on wrong side and catch stitch.

Drawstring: Waistline often has casing stitched over it for belt. See pp. 123, 124 for casings.

Skirt belt or waistband: Turn belt, right sides together, stitch two short ends. Trim close at corners, turn right side out, press. Apply one thickness to wrong side of skirt, stitch. Turn free end over stitching on right side and stitch. Or, apply one thickness on right side, hem free edge on wrong side.

Wide sashes are usually cut on the bias, and finished with a narrow hem or picot edging.

Bound buttonholes are made before seaming and turning belt.
 
Belt carriers:

1. Fabric tube turned under at ends and tacked on either side of waistline.

2. Thread carrier. Several vertical stitches are taken over waistline, and then worked over with blanket stitches.

3. French tack. Like thread carrier, but done between garment and inside of belt so that nothing shows on right side.

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