Chapter 28 - Collars

Choose collars of a shape suitable to the garment and becoming to you. (See pp. 54-58.)

Collars are usually made with a facing of same shape and material. Stitch collar and facing, right sides together, on three sides, leaving neck edge free. Trim and clip seams; turn; press.

Collar and facing are sometimes cut in one piece. Fold in half lengthwise, right sides together, stitch across ends, and turn as above.

Non-Convertible Collar

Non-convertible collars: To apply to garment, baste collar on to right side of garment (A). Turn back front facing pieces cut in one with garment, to right side. Baste bias strip on top, in center part, between facings, and stitch through all thick-nesses. Trim and clip seam, turn bias and facings to wrong side, turn edges (B) of bias under ¼ inch, stitching close to fold, then slip stitch bias to position on wrong side.

Or, collar is basted and stitched on right side of garment only from each end (C) to shoulder seam through front facing pieces turned back to right side over the collar. Under collar only is stitched to garment in center section between shoulder seams. Trim seams. Turn facing to wrong side. At shoulder seam, clip seam from top edge to stitching of under collar. Hem free edge of collar in center part over stitching on wrong side.

For collar of one thickness of fabric only, finish edge with lace, ruffling, hem, etc., before attaching to garment. Attach with bias basted over collar, stitched and turned to wrong side, where it is hemmed to position. Or attach with French seam (see pp. 99, 100).

Detachable collar: Face and turn collar as above. Encase raw edges at top in a 1 ½ -inch bias strip with bias edges turned in ¼ inch on each side. Stitch bias on to collar. Place collar on garment and slip stitch bound edge to inside of garment about ½ inch down. Or, sew in snaps for easy permanent joining.

Convertible collars are worn straight up or turned down. Make a straight bound opening at neck (see p. 140); stitch outside of collar to wrong side of neckline, through blouse facing; press seam up. Turn under free edge of collar facing and hem to seam line on right side.

Or, for heavier fabric, stitch under layer of collar to neck edge, right sides together, before turning back blouse front facing, and trim seam allowance. Turn collar up, clip seam, turn under raw edges of collar and blouse facing, turn facing to wrong side, slip stitch top layer of collar to top of facing. Roll collar to natural position, hem free edge in center section of upper part of collar down.

Notched collar is a type of convertible collar. Face collar and turn. Stitch to right side of garment, turn under blouse facing edges ¼ inch; stitch, and turn blouse facing to right side. Stitch outside edge of facing along fold starting at bottom, pivot at top corner and stitch across to edge of facing. Stitching line should meet line of stitching for collar. Clip seam of facing, especially close at corner; turn facing to inside. Turn collar up so that seam is on back inside edge, facing down, and press seam. Baste bias strip over seam, ends under facing, and hem both sides by hand. Catch facing to garment.

For heavier materials, as wool, use the tailor's method. Sew the under collar to neck, right sides together. Clip seam line in at front edge of collar and at shoulder. Press seam open between clips and turn collar up. Attach upper collar to separate front facing; clip seams to press open as above. Baste facing to garment, right sides together, carefully. Turn collar up. Stitch along outside edge from bottom of facing up; pivot at corner across to collar seam line, up and around collar, down to garment seam line, across and down edge of facing. Clip seams, trim corners, turn facing and collar to inside. Roll collar to normal position, clip seam, hem free edge down.

Standing shirt collar: Face collar, turn. Cut out two strips for a band for the standing part, insert raw collar edges between two, right sides together, and stitch on seam line through all thicknesses. Trim seam to ¼ inch, turn band pieces down, press. Baste and stitch inner band to inside of shirt, right sides together. Turn under edge of outer band and baste in position on outside over seam. Stitch.

To finish collars, use decorative stitches or shell edge. For lace or embroidered edging in double collar, apply between two layers of collar before stitching around sides. When collar is turned, lace will form an edging.

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