Chapter 27 - Neck Openings

The neck opening depends on the style of the garment. You should choose styles that are becoming to you; for example, round necklines are unsuitable for stout, round faces; V-shaped lines are more flattering. (See pp. 54-58.)

Round neckline: Cut bias strip about two inches wide and the length of the opening plus one inch. Join the short ends in a ½-inch seam. Press seam open, turn in bottom edge ¼ inch, baste and stitch close to fold. Stitch bias to neckline at seam line, right sides together. Clip and trim seam. Turn to wrong side so that no seam shows on right side, slip stitch to position with practically invisible stitches on right side.

Straight bound opening: Mark, but do not cut, opening. Cut a straight piece about 2½ inches wide and two inches longer than length of opening. Turn under ¼ inch on two long sides and one short side; stitch. Baste piece to garment, right sides together, with center over marked line. Stitch ¼ inch from center on both sides, and straight across bottom. Cut through center to within ½ inch of bottom and diagonally to corners. Turn to wrong side and catch to position. Or, stitch a triangle, starting ¼ inch from center at top, and tapering to nothing at bottom. Slash to point, turn.

Bound slash: Slash opening and stitch on bias strip about one inch wide, right sides together. Trim seams, turn in raw edge of binding ¼ inch and stitch. Turn to wrong side. Hem to stitching.

V neckline: Pin l½ inches bias on to both sides of V, right sides together. Miter point by overlapping two pieces and stitching a triangle. Trim seam and press open. Baste bias to opening. Stitch around V, pivoting at corner with needle down, presser foot up. Clip to point, trim seam, turn to wrong side.

Turn edge of facing in ¼ inch and stitch near fold, then slip stitch to garment.

Square neckline: Pin bias pieces along both sides and bottom. Pin in miter at corners, stitch, trim seam, press open.

Trim seam, turn facing to wrong side. Turn raw edge under ¼ inch, edge stitch , and slip stitch facing to position.

Neck zipper: Slash opening, turn back full seam allowance, clipping in seam at bottom to lie flat; press. Diagonal baste center folds together, and pin in zipper, with fold lines over center of metal, completely covering zipper. Baste on both sides and stitch with cording foot close to metal and across bottom. If seam allowance is not wide enough, add seam binding to edges before turning back; ½-inch seam will do.

Or, use a facing for lightweight fabrics. Cut out piece three inches wide and two inches longer than zipper. Turn in edges ¼ inch all around, slash for opening and turn back seam allowance as above. Baste folds close to metal on each side, wrong sides together. Then continue as above.

Loop closing: Slash opening. Sew loops on (see p. 158) between facings and garment. Sew facing on, right sides together, turn to wrong side.

Placket opening: Cut a facing piece 2½ inches wide, ½ inch longer than opening. Turn one long and one short edge in ¼ inch, stitch close to fold. Baste raw edge on to left side of opening, right side to wrong side of opening. Stitch. Turn to right side, baste over seam and stitch. Cut a facing piece one inch longer than opening and twice as wide as finished placket plus seam allowance. Turn in ¼ inch on long edges, crease lengthwise through center. Open, cut an angle on one side and straight across on other as in illustration. Turn this cut side in ¼ inch, clipping it at inside corner to lie flat. Re-crease through center; insert right hand side of slash between edges, point down. Baste flat, stitch to point at top of angle, across and up other side. Close placket with basting, as it will look when finished, and stitch around point, catching in under-lap. Buttonholes and buttons usually fasten a placket of this type.

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