Chapter 25 - Plackets

A placket is a finished opening for hooks and eyes, snaps, buttons, zippers, etc., where necessary.

Placket Openings

Narrow hemmed placket: Turn under narrow hem on each side of the opening. Fold the hem under on one side, forming a pleat, so that it laps over the other side. Reinforce lower end with diagonal backstitching. Used for infants' wear and underwear.

Infants' placket: Used for lightweight materials and very often in infants' clothes. Slash opening straight down and across at bottom, ¾ inch on each side of the long slash. Turn back raw edges the full width allowed for by cross slash and hem the edges by hand or machine. Lap edges by turning hem under on one side, and sew across lower end to reinforce. Often the stitches are fine running stitches or decorative feather stitching.

Continuous bound placket: Slash opening. Make facing two inches wide and twice as long as opening. Stitch to sides of opening, right sides together, stitching close at the point. Turn under raw edge ¼ inch and turn strip to wrong side, hemming to first stitching line. Fold top edge under to form overlap and stitch ends at bottom. When making this placket in a seam, slash seam allowance above and below opening. Instead of hemming, sometimes the turned free edges are stitched just inside first stitching line by machine. Used in undergarments, such as panties and half slips, and in clothes which are laundered often. Modified continuous placket or underwear placket: Make as for continuous placket up to hemming down edges. Hem back edge to stitching as above. On front side, cut away placket to within ½ inch of bottom and ¼ inch of folded edge to remove bulk. Turn front strip all the way back on seam line, as for a facing, and hem by hand to garment. Since hemming will show on right side, placket is used for underwear mostly. However, in heavy materials, where removal of bulk is important, front edge can be slip stitched for almost invisible finish. Used in undergarments, children's clothes and sleeve openings. Less bulky than continuous bound placket.

Seam placket: Used for dress openings. Cut two bias strips one inch longer than opening and l½ inches wide. Clip seam above and below opening. Sew strips on right sides together. Turn front strip back to inside flat, turn in raw edge and slip stitch to dress. Back piece forms an extension by turning raw edge in and slip stitching to seam line. Stitch strips together across top and bottom. Sew on snaps and hook and eye at waist.

Skirt placket in two pieces. With waistband: Cut two strips ¾ inch wide and one inch longer than opening. Open back seam flat by slashing back seam allowance, stitch strips to opening, right sides together. Turn to inside, hem to stitching or stitch just inside first line. Turn overlap (front) edge back and stitch to under lap across bottom. Waistband is usually added to skirt top over placket.

With inner belting: Finish placket as above except that overlap is turned on seam line, like a facing, all the way back, and strips are hemmed by hand to wrong side. Then make belt, as on p. 155, press and sew snaps into skirt placket. Belting hooks under placket to give firm smooth, usually higher, waistline. Do not catch belting and placket together.

Zippers: Baste opening as though you were closing it in a continuation of the seam. Press sharply and remove bastings. (Edges are turned back to inside.) Sew back edge on to right side of zipper close to metal. Stitch with cording foot. Front edge is pinned over zipper, completely covering it. Use one pin right under the other. Leave pins in, baste on front side of zipper, catching in tape. Stitch down and across at bottom for skirt; start across for dress, at top, then down and across at bottom.

Keep zipper closed when working. Back edge may be creased ⅛ inch outside seam line for greater ease in overlapping front. Bottom may be stitched diagonally, as well as straight across. Where seam allowance is not wide enough, stitch seam binding on to seam edges to extend them. If you can think that far ahead, it is a good idea to cut out an extra allowance at the zipper opening when cutting out garment.

In a slashed opening, as at the neck or the bottom of the sleeve, stitch facing pieces on to both sides of opening, right sides together; turn facings to wrong side and press before inserting zipper. Baste edges of the slash together with diagonal basting. Put zipper under basted edges, with center of metal directly under the basted edges. Baste on both sides of metal firmly and stitch with cording foot, down, across and up. Rip bastings.

Be sure to use the right kind of zipper for your purpose. A coil-type synthetic zipper may be separated to release cloth that gets caught in it. Choose a zipper that has a sewing guide line and an adjustable zipper foot for an easier, more professional looking application.

Neckline zippers—4 through 36 inches—for different length necklines, shifts, housecoats.

Skirt zippers—7 inches and 9 inches.

Separating zippers—10 through 20 inches lightweight and 14 through 24 inches heavyweight.

Dress zippers—10, 12, 14 inches with a top stop.

Trouser zippers—11 inches (may be shortened) with extra wide tapes for reinforced stitching.

Decorative zippers—various lengths and widths, installed without an overlap.

Are You Ready To Move Onto The Next Lesson? Click Here...