Chapter 21 - Pleats And Godets

Pleats are used for decorative effects and to add fullness. Pleated sections should be complete before being set into a garment. Mark the place for the pleats first with chalk or tailor's tacks very carefully. These markings are indicated on commercial patterns. Use plenty of pins and press often and well. It is a good idea when stay stitching slanting lines or triangles at the bottom of pleats (for reinforcement) first to trace on paper the desired design, and then stitch right over the paper. The effect will then be completely symmetrical and the paper may easily be torn away.

Pleats that go in one direction should be basted with diagonal basting. Pleats that meet at a center line should be slip stitched together to make sure that they do not slip apart. Dressmaking supply houses will steam special pleats into a garment if you desire.

Plain pleat: Fold through markings, press sharply, and bring to indicated line. Baste, press on inside, and stitch on the right side from top as far down as desired.

Side or kick pleat: Single pleats or plain pleats facing in one direction at side or center. Stitch fold an inch below top of pleat. Stay stitch a slanting line at top on right side.

Knife pleats are narrow plain pleats that go all around garment facing in one direction. They are made like plain pleats.

Accordion pleats are vertical overlapping pleats made only by machine or pattern. Put in hem first, use three times amount of material needed for hip size and do all seams except center back. Have the skirt pleated, then seam the center back. Several rows of shirring may be placed across the top if desired.

Box pleat: Make two plain pleats in opposite directions. Edges of two pleats are on wrong side and right side shows fullness in a paneled effect. Box pleats may be made professionally by placing the material in a pattern where it is steamed into a shape.

Inverted pleat in a seam: Your pattern gives an allowance for the front part of pleat. Back allowance is made with piece of fabric cut twice the width of pleat. Stitch the back facing fabric to sides of extensions on wrong side after pleat is pressed in place, and overcast or seam pleat to facing. Do not sew through the skirt. Stay stitch in V shape at top of pleat on the right side for strength. It is a good idea to put in the lower hem before forming the pleat.

Radiating pleats are like narrow tucks in a circular skirt. It is good to edge stitch the folds to hold their shape or to have edges picoted. Press well before stitching.

Sunburst or fan pleats give a fanlike effect and are the only pleats pressed on the true bias. They are narrow on top and wider at the bottom. They are usually made in a pattern and steamed. Fold a square of paper in half and in half again. Connect opposite corners to make a portion of a circle and cut out circular line. Cut circle in half and fold to make a fan, reversing creases folded the wrong way. The material for the fan pleats is folded in same way. Experiment with paper for desired size, then cut out material to proper shape, baste, press. Allow extra material for seams and do the hem first. Press with steam and set into garment.

Cartridge pleats are soft impressed pleats with rounded edges applied as trimming on belts, waists, pockets. On straight piece of cloth or on ribbon, put in several rows of uneven basting as for gauging, with long stitches in a direct line. Pull up to size forming the rolls with a pencil or orange stick. Tack to garment through inner fold of pleats with tiny running stitches, or leave pencil in fold and stitch close to pencil with cording foot all the way down beside each pleat or part of the way down as desired.

Inverted pleat: Like box pleat except that fullness is on the wrong side and the right side shows two pleats. Stitch down one fold, across to other and up, or stay stitch an angle at end making sure both sides are even. See suggestion for stitching on paper above.

2 is used where there is no fabric allowance for a pleat. Cut two pieces of fabric, each the size of the pleat; apply facing to right side of garment, and mark center line. Stitch ¼ inch on each side of center, tapering to a point. Slash to point, turn facing to wrong side, make pleat, press, baste. Now add back extension and continue exactly as for inverted pleat in a seam except that no stay stitching is shown on right side. Tack together with invisible stitches on right side.

Stitched or stayed pleats. Stitch down pleats flat as far as desired, then continue stitching along edge of pleat all the way down without catching garment. Cut bobbin thread to make unbroken line of stitching and catch the loose threads by hand afterwards.

Set-in inverted pleat. Cut away section of garment, clip at corners. Turn in seam allowance to wrong side and baste. Lay opening over pressed pleat and baste to position carefully. Press, stitch close to edge all around.
A godet (pronounced goday) is an inset in a garment and is usually shaped like a piece of pie. It will add fullness and has a decorative effect. Slash place at which inset is to be made, insert godet, forming a seam on each side that tapers to a point at top. Clip to the point and overcast around top for strength. Press. The godet may be top stitched on the right side and may also be hemstitched to garment. Small godets inserted in a collar are very pretty. When a godet is inserted in a seam, a stay or facing is applied to wrong side, as is described above for inserting a pleat into a seam.

Round-top godet. Turn seam allowance of garment back, clipping around curve, and baste edge of godet to opening on wrong side. Top stitch on right side.

Godet with shaped top. As above but clip carefully to all corners.

Applied godet. Turn seam allowance of godet to the wrong side and baste flat. Apply godet to right side of garment in a lapped seam and stitch. To reinforce the top, cut a piece of fabric the same shape as the top of the godet and overcast or slip stitch it to the top on the wrong side.

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