Chapter 15 - Making A Blouse

If you have been following along in this book, and trying the suggested projects, you have learned, by now, something of how to use a pattern. Working with the three pieces in the skirt pattern is different from working with a more complicated pattern, so let's try one of the latter variety. Measure the fullest part of your bust, your waist, your hips, and buy a pattern for a button-down-the-front sports blouse with a collar and sleeves. Check the back of the envelope for the yardage needed. Circle the layout on your pattern guide sheet. As already discussed, pin pattern front to back at side seams, and measure with a tape. Compare waist, hip, shoulder, bust, armhole, sleeve length measurements with your own, and make all necessary pattern alterations. One important point: pin in all darts and tucks before measuring and measure only from center front to center back. Do not include facings in your measurements.

Unpin pattern pieces, straighten the material, and, checking with the pattern layout, pin all pieces on to the fabric. Cut. There will probably be some pieces that you do not need. That is because several styles may be made from the same pattern. Make necessary tailor tacks and marks for buttonholes, pockets, darts and tucks, fold line for facing, etc.

Start by pinning in darts and tucks. Read directions on pp. 108-113 first. Stitch darts and tucks by machine, being very careful to eliminate dart bubbles by stitching to a point and along the edge of the fold for a few stitches when ending off the dart. If there is a pocket, construct it according to directions for patch pockets (pp. 134-135), and baste it on to the left front of the blouse, on pocket markings. Stitch very carefully in a completely functional, or in a decorative way (contrasting thread, several rows of stitching), and be sure to reinforce the top at each side where there is a lot of strain.

If you are going to make bound buttonholes (see p. 161), they must be done at this time, even though it seems funny to construct buttonholes before you have put in even one seam. Your buttons must be selected so you will know what size the buttonhole is to be. It is sensible to use bound buttonholes only if you have very good fabric, and especially if the blouse is not to be washed. Washing in soap and water may eventually wash a bound buttonhole out. Check p. 161 for construction details in making bound buttonholes. If you are making a worked buttonhole, wait until blouse is almost finished before doing buttonholes.

Join the shoulder seams, right sides together. It may be necessary for you to ease (p. 33), or gather (pp. 10, 119), one side of the shoulder to the other before you stitch by machine. Fold back the front facings on the marked fold line, pin in the side seams and try on for the first fitting. Read notes on bust, sleeve, armhole problems (pp. 82-84), and examine yourself critically. Re-pin side seams to fit correctly. Make any necessary changes, although the chances are that your only changes will be made in the pinned side seams. When you are satisfied, change the pins which were put in parallel to the edge for fitting, to the perpendicular position for stitching and stitch the side seams. Press all seams open as soon as they are sewed.

Finish the neckline, facings and bottom hem next. Stitch around the collar seam line on three sides (not on the notched edge) and trim the seam all around. Turn collar to the right side; press. Baste the collar onto the right side of the blouse, matching the center lines of the collar and the back of the blouse, and also matching notches. Fold front facing on the indicated fold line to the front of the blouse over the collar. The top will be caught in the neckline seam, the bottom in the hem. Turn in the raw edge of the rest of the facing ¼ inch and stitch close to the turned edge. Finish as described under "non-convertible" collars (p. 143). Stitch across the bottom of the facing on the seam line on both sides, from the fold to the facing edge. Trim neckline seam and seam at bottom of facing. Turn to wrong side. Hem the bias or collar self-finish at the neckline. Catch the facing at the shoulder seams. Press the finished neckline. Turn up the bottom hem, the amount being indicated by the seam you have just stitched on the bottom of the blouse.

At this point you may put in the worked buttonholes (see p. 160), if you have not made the bound ones. Sewing stores will put in buttonholes for you at a small charge. If you are convinced that you are going to be a sewer, you will find it a good investment to buy yourself a buttonholer. You may, of course, do worked buttonholes by hand, but this is very time-consuming and it is difficult to do an evenly sized and spaced series by hand. If you are patient and unusually neat, you can, however, get good results. Here, however, using a zigzag type of machine is a definite advantage because this type of machine will make quickly and neatly any length buttonhole, corded or plain, without attachments. Check pp. 160, 224 for sewing on buttons.

Stitch the underarm seam of the short sleeve, right sides together. Make and attach the cuff (see pp. 153-154). Check pp. 148-150 for setting in the sleeves. Insert sleeves into arm-holes and stitch. Press blouse and try on for final fit. As the last step, the seams are finished in some suitable way (see p. 101).

If you have a long sleeve, make a sleeve opening in one of the ways described and illustrated on pp. 148-150. Put in any elbow darts called for, stitch the underarm seam, press. Add the cuff or wristband, then set in the sleeve.

For any detail not mentioned in this chapter, see the pattern guide. While explanations are brief, they are usually complete and well illustrated. Use your imagination if you have any desire to decorate the blouse. See the chapters on decorative stitches and finishes, pp. 163-184.

Are You Ready To Move Onto The Next Lesson? Click Here...