Chapter 6 - Selecting A Sewing Machine

The sewing machine you select will be a treasured tool for many years. The ordinary machine you will see is the lockstitch machine which has been essentially unchanged since 1900. A recent development has been the zigzag machine which was adapted from industrial machinery. Another type of machine makes a chain stitch.

The lockstitch machine makes ordinary stitches "locked" into the material. In such machines the needle moves in a straight line, up and down. Various sewing operations may be performed by adding attachments which may be inserted quite easily. These are described on pp. 22-26.

The zigzag machine, first introduced in Europe, in addition to doing ordinary jobs that a sewing machine is called upon to do, can perform a variety of other operations, such as sewing on buttons and embroidering. It operates with a needle which moves from side to side. This makes it possible to do not only the ordinary sewing jobs which a lockstitch machine can do, but also many operations which must usually be done by hand. By moving the lever which regulates the sidewise length of the stitch, and the lever which regulates the length of the stitch, the zigzag machine may be made to create a wide variety of decorative stitches, sew on buttons, make buttonholes of any length, do blind stitching, hemstitching, monogramming and applique sewing without attachments. Some of the decorative stitches are shown in Chapter 34 (p. 174).

Three American manufacturers make most of the machines sold in this country—Singer Sewing Machine Co., White Sewing Machine Co. (which also makes Domestic and Sears Ken-more) and the Free-New Home-National group (a merger of various companies which makes the Free Westinghouse and private brands for stores like Macy's and Montgomery Ward). Many imported machines are considered at least equal to those made in America. Among the most popular are the Necchi (Italian), Elna (Swiss), Anker (German), Pfaff (German) and the British Singer. One foreign-made machine is rated "best buy" by Consumers Union. All of them have some features not found in American-made machines.

Also introduced by European sewing machine manufacturers to the American market are machines with a free (cylindrical) lower arm, which are especially useful for darning or for sewing tubular articles, such as socks, sleeves, and pants legs.

Here are some hints on what to look for when you buy your sewing machine:

1. Your machine should be a round-bobbin, lockstitch machine. Do not buy a long shuttle machine, which uses a long bobbin, because such machines vibrate excessively.

Your machine should run quietly and without vibration.

There are chain-stitch machines on the market which sew without a bobbin. Chain stitching ravels out and is, therefore, not suitable for sewing where strength and permanence are required.

2. A modern sewing machine should have at least the following features:

a. A lever for sewing forward and reverse.

b. A numerically calibrated (measuring) tension, which makes adjustments of thread simpler, and prevents breaking of thread.

c. A hinged pressure foot for sewing over heavy seams and pins.

d. A simple drop feed adjustment to permit darning and embroidery.

e. A self-releasing automatic bobbin winder.

3. While not essential, your machine should, if possible, also have a snap-out hook case for easy cleaning, and should have the bobbin case so placed that the machine does not have to be tilted over to replace the bobbin.

4. Servicing for your machine should be easily obtainable. Almost all American machines and the more widely advertised European types are sold and serviced all over the United States. Of the leading foreign makes, the Necchi and Elna machines use standard needles. On the Necchi and Pfaff machines, the parts which need most frequent replacement are interchangeable with those of standard American makes.

The miracle of modern engineering has found its way into the sewing room with the new zigzag, twin-needle, and swing-needle machines, and automatic devices which make even the beginning seamstress an artist. In addition to a regular straight stitch, some machines produce a zigzag stitch of varying widths and lengths. The zigzag has many practical uses as well as decorative ones. It is particularly useful to sew on buttons, make buttonholes, sew lace, join lace to an insertion or ribbon, make appliqué designs, do quilting, roll hems, apply binding, and do various mending jobs.

Newest machines are largely automatic with a push-button bobbin device, switches to set stitch sizes, zigzag or chain stitch, and automatic stitch pattern selectors.

Before the automatic machines, decorative effects were accomplished by moving by hand the lever which widened or narrowed the stitches. Now endless versions of decorative stitches are possible through the use of disks or cams which move the lever automatically. Thus, when the stitch length is regulated to bring the stitches close together, a satin stitch is created. This is used chiefly for monograms, edge finishes, and cut-work embroidery.

Cams or disks are used to create more complicated designs, scallops, block shapes, arrowheads, tree shapes, saw-toothed edges, diamonds—all variations of the satin stitch.

Even more unusual stitches are possible with another device which controls movement of the material as it is fed into the machine. By gentle back and forth feeding, while the needle swings from side to side, other decorative stitches are made possible: featherstitches, leaves, Greek designs, scrolls, etc. The effect is a machine embroidery as effective as hand embroidery but much easier and speedier to make. Machines which take the automatic disks and control the feed are known as "fully automatic." Such machines can make buttonholes automatically without even turning the fabric, blind stitch, hemstitch, make eyelets, and do a score of other chores.

This type of machine embroidery is ideal for decorating sheets, pillowcases, linens, place mats, towels, curtains, layettes, children's dresses, bonnets, toys, etc.

The sewing machine head can usually be purchased as a portable model which comes in a portable carrying case. Such machines can generally be mounted in sewing desks or console cabinets, as required. The Elna is made only as a portable machine.

The furniture of your sewing machine is a valuable part of the complete unit and should be built with extra strength to carry so heavy a piece of machinery as a sewing machine. Check it for quality just as you would any piece of furniture. Doors should fit neatly. The cabinet should not wobble on its legs. Drawers should fit snugly and slide smoothly. Veneer and finish should be equal to that of any other good furniture.

Read the manufacturer's guarantee of performance. Your machine should be fully and clearly guaranteed against defects or poor performance. The guarantee should cover the machine furniture as well.

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