Chapter 3 - Basic Stitches

To thread your needle, cut the thread at an angle so that you will have a pointed end to put through the needle eye. If you need a knot, form it according to these directions:

1. Hold the end of the thread between the thumb and the first finger of the right hand. With the left hand, hold the thread about 2 inches from the end.

2. Bring thread around end of first finger, cross ends and hold in place with thumb.

3. Roll cut end into center of loop and continue rolling loop off end of finger.

4. Draw loop into a knot and pull down to the end of the thread.

To sew we push the needle in and out of the material with our thimble. Practice making small and large stitches and learn to conserve your energy by taking several stitches before pulling the needle all the way out of the material. We end a line of sewing by going over the last stitch two or three times or by taking a small backstitch, as in basting.

Master the art of the thimble and practice holding the needle so that the eye end fits into one of the little depressions in the thimble and you are able to push the needle through the cloth with the side of the thimble.

While this chapter is basically for reference, it will pay you to stop a moment and develop at least a nodding acquaintance with the various stitches described. Practice each stitch so that when called upon to do it, you will not have to stop in the middle of doing something else to develop skill.

Basting is a temporary type of stitch used to hold two or more pieces of material together. Begin with a knot, put the needle through the material from the wrong side to the right, take a tiny backstitch for security, baste as described below, and end off with a tiny backstitch or with two or three small stitches perpendicular to the basting line.

1. Even basting. Make your stitches ½ inch long and the spaces between stitches the same. This is a firm basting which is accurate and which will not pull out easily when fitting garments.

2. Uneven basting. Stitches are ½ inch to ⅝ inch long with ¼ inch space between. It is good as a guide line.

3. Diagonal basting. Used to prevent slipping of material when inserting zippers or putting in coat linings. Slant stitches on right side from bottom to top, come through to wrong side, hold needle in a straight line and pull out to right side again directly below where you originally inserted needle.

4. Dressmaker basting. Take one long and two or three short stitches.

5. Alteration or slip basting. This is used to baste seams where the garment has been fitted right side out or when you have to match plaids or stripes. Fold top material under at the proper place, and pin this fold to the place to be matched.

Make a stitch through the turned-in edge of the fold, draw it through and make a short stitch through the under layer of material.

The running stitch is a tiny, even basting stitch used for gathering, shirring, mending. It can be used where a strong stitch is unnecessary.

Gathering is not a stitch but is rather an effect. Make a row of running stitches, but at the end, do not fasten. Leave a piece of thread about four inches long, and, holding this tightly, push the material back gently so as not to break the thread. Wind the thread around a pin to hold.

Shirring is the effect gotten by two or more rows of gathering. Make two or three lines of running stitches not more than ¼ inch apart and, holding all the ends together, gather and fasten threads around a pin.

Gauging is used to bring a large amount of material into a small space. Do two or three lines of uneven basting, making sure that corresponding stitches lie directly in line, one above the other. Pull up threads as in gathering and shirring.

Backstitching is the strongest handmade stitch. Take a tiny running stitch, go back to the end of the stitch, through to the wrong side, and out again to the right side at a distance from the end of the last stitch equal to one running stitch. Continue going back and under, being sure to work in a straight line.

A half backstitch is made by making one running stitch, going back, under, and out again as described above, except that you leave a space equivalent to two running stitches, and follow up by going back the equivalent of one running stitch. On the right side, then, the work looks like a series of running stitches. Like the combination stitch, below, it is used where you need a stitch stronger than a running stitch, but not as strong as a backstitch.

A combination stitch is two running stitches followed by one backstitch. It is stronger than a straight running stitch, but not as strong as backstitching.

Overcastting is used on fabric edges to prevent raveling. Make stitches slanting from right to left on the right side and have needle point towards your left shoulder as you come through from the wrong to the right side again. Overcastting can also be done quickly on the modern zigzag type of machine.

Over handing is a stitch used to make flat, strong, invisible seams. Baste the two folds to be joined together and, holding the cloth firmly as you sew, make tiny, practically invisible stitches perpendicular to the seam line on the right side, and slanted on the wrong side. The same effect can be obtained by using a short zigzag machine stitch.

In hemming, turn in the edge of the fabric ¼ inch, then turn second time, and baste to under fabric. Make small slanting stitches from right to left, catching only a thread or two of the under material. A bias hemming tape may be stitched on to avoid turning hem under. Blind hemming is done like hemming but with larger stitches through the fold and only one thread on under side. The work is invisible on the right side. This too can be done more rapidly with the new zigzag machines and is especially recommended when considerable hemming is to be done. Slip stitching is done for very fine work and is invisible on both sides. Take up one thread on under side of fold and one on underside of fabric.

Whipping is done to get a fine finished edge. Roll edge to be whipped a little at a time, wrong side facing you, hold roll tightly, and make tiny slanted stitches that pass under, not through the roll.

Pressing. It is most important to realize that pressing is a part of sewing, not an "extra." We might even say that pressing immediately after stitching is the difference between the work of an amateur and an expert. Never attach one part of a garment to another before the seams, darts, tucks, pleats, etc., are pressed.

Pressing is different from ironing in that, in pressing, we do not push the iron along the material. Instead, we use pressure and steam. That is, we raise the iron, set it down firmly, lift the iron again and set it down firmly at the next part to be pressed.

For most fabrics, it is better to press on the wrong side. Cotton may be pressed on the right side, but wool, silk and rayon may become shiny, and napped fabrics will have their pile or nap crushed if pressed on the right side.

In most cases, we need press cloths for pressing, unless we have a steam iron. A sponge is used for dampening the press cloth. Some workers prefer a small paintbrush to moisten seams.

General rules for pressing are:

1. In pressing seams, open seam with the tip of the iron.

2. Remove basting threads, especially heavy ones, before pressing.

3. Press all folded and creased edges before edge stitching.

4. Press with the grain of the fabric.

5. Never rest the iron on the fabric.

6. Test heat of iron on inside of hem or on belt before pressing.

7. Avoid stretching parts of the garment while pressing. Be especially careful with curved and bias edges.

8. In general, press seams from the bottom up or towards the center. (Waistline seam is an exception.)

9. Press gathered sections by putting tip of iron up into gathers. Do not press them flat.

10. To shrink out fullness in wool, as in a sleeve cap, press with the side of the iron parallel to stitching line, first on seam side, then on sleeve side of stitching, with iron close to, but not touching, the stitching. A smooth molded effect can be gotten as all fullness is shrunk out.

You will find a list of pressing equipment needed on pp. 6-7. Set up your ironing board when you start to work. Remember that your motto is "Stitch and press."

Are You Ready To Move Onto The Next Lesson? Click Here...